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Page 3 of 5
Test-fit Before
you fit the glass, test-fit and remove the bottom rail with its long
self-tapping screws to make sure that the threads are cut, and
everything's going into place. It won't be so easy when you're forcing
the glass against its sealing mastic. Support the glass first with a
small bead of putty in the channels, and apply the mastic afterwards.
Slide the glass up into the channels of the upper frame - make sure
that you get the heating element on the inside! The machine screws that
help fix the lower corners also hold the latch boxes in place. Lightly
fit them to make sure that the frame is aligned, then fully tighten the
self tapping screws. The machine screws can then come out again to fit
the latches.
Don't delay Read the instructions on your
silcone sealer - if it says "remove excess immediately with white
spirit" then do so! Otherwise you may find its much harder to remove
after its gone off. The kit includes an angled piece of aluminium to
use as a wipe stop rail, which you push into the mastic before it sets.
Next, the least exciting bit, fitting the lower sealing rubber into its
channel. There really is no quick and easy alternative to working
slowly along, levering it under the channel lip with a blunt
screwdriver. When re-fitting the lock to the lower rail, note that the
screws may be two different lengths. The shorter one should go towards
the LH side of the vehicle to avoid fowling the mechanism inside the
lock. Fit the exterior handle and push-button before you attempt to
adjust the side latch operating rods. Don't forget to feed the plastic
central-locking actuator arm through the slot in the frame before you
introduce the locking mechanism, aligning it with the rotating collar
on the back of the push button.
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Fitting 
