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Brittle You'll also need to remove
the little plastic "saddles" that support the lock actuator rods.
They're in two parts, with a collar pressed into a hole in the metal,
and the saddle (looking like a miniature rowing boat rowlock) pushed
down into it. This plastic will probably have got very brittle, and it
is easist to angle-grind a hole in the outer face of the frame so a
screwdriver can be used on the parts from behind to gently push
them up.
Not Symmetrical Likewise, the rear window
sealing strip holder is best fitted before the frame is assembled. You
may have to remove it again temporarily, to allow the lock to be fitted
into the frame. You'll need to drill the (2mm) fixing holes yourself.
Note that the holder isn't symmetrical and the longer lip needs to face
towards the outside (rear) of the vehicle, in the angle of the lower
frame. Similarly, drill and fit the top rain gutter to the top frame,
but remove it again before assembly. Start from the centre and work
outwards, as you are forcing it into a curve. Now you can start to
build the top and sides together. Lay a blanket on the table (worktop)
to protect the powder coating and offer up the pieces, having first
cleaned up any rough edges on the mitre with a file.
Cross-threadFix
the top of the side frames together - the instructions with the kit
warn that the screw in the top frame won't lie flat but it will be
partly hidden by the top rain gutter. Take great care not to
cross-thread the machine screws: you're going into an angled end, and
the aluminium is soft. Before final tightening, lay the frame on a flat
surface to make sure its not warped.
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Fitting 
