• Fitting the British Tailgate.
  

By Graeme Aldous (an abridged version of a customer's view)

The Process

Start by removing the cover strips along the inside lower edge and up the right hand side of the old tailgate (by which, from now on, I always mean the upper section). This gives access to the cables for the central locking, which can be disconnected at the actuator end. Releasing the clamping saddles on the grey plastic tubes that guide the cables up into the rear headlining, disconnect the heated rear window connections. Take great care here: these connections are very vulnerable and if you knock one off the glass, you'll have to sub up for a complete new window! Throughout the whole operation, keep those connections in mind. Next, release the lower end of the gas struts. You may have to drill out the four big screws in the hinges, which can seize, but there are replacements in the kit. Then the tailgate is lifted off and placed, outside down, on a large table, with the handle hanging over the edge. All the other fittings - latches, actuator rods and so on - were removed, apart from the lock (which we will come back to in a minute). The outer handle is held by two large screws from the inside, and as this is steel-into-alloy, you may need an overnight soaking with penetrating oil before they will budge.

Hacksaw

The steel frame is made in two parts - the top and sides as one, and the bottom as the other, held together with long screws. It's scrap, so use a hacksaw on it or even a metal cutting disc in an angle-grinder, always taking great care not to go too deep and nick the glass. Follow the line of the old join, and cut through the fixings between the bottom and sides. Once you're through the metal, two of you should be able to pull the frame bottom off the glass. You'll probably need to repeat the cutting exercise  on the upper two corners. Once the glass is free, carefully remove all the old sealant from it and put it safely to one side. You can now be more ruthless with the old frame.Drill out the big pop rivets holding the gas strut lower fixings to the sides. Draw a sketch of them first, as they are handed and will have to go back on the same way round. Definitely do the pop-riveting on the new frame before the glass goes in - and you'll need a man-sized gun! Now remove the central lock unit from the lower frame. There are two countersunk screws, their heads hidden under the sealing rubber channel rust. They'll need a good overnight soaking in some releasing oil.

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